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Blessed are the Cheesemakers
I pierced the white skin of the creamy flesh of the beautiful slab of Tipperary Brie gifted to me at the 25th Anniversary Celebrations of the organisation Cáis. I carefully cut it into neat cubes. I then dipped them in beaten egg and into very fine breadcrumbs. Laying my pieces on a plate I put them into the freezer. At dinner time on Sunday I repeated the egg and breadcrumb ritual. I dropped them into the deep fat fryer for 1minute. There I had it, the perfect deep fried brie. I served it with hot red currant jelly. This is one treat that my family really enjoy. As we eat we talk about Breda Maher who is Cooleeney cheese. Cooleeney cheese is synonymous with my home in Tipperary being just a mile from where I grew up. I remember when Breda and Jim started making cheese and I have enjoyed watching their business develop and grow through the years. I have visited their plant on several occasions. I know the fields where the cows graze. I know the hands that make this cheese and I know its story which all adds to our enjoyment of it.
Ireland’s artisan cheese makers are world famous and this is due in no small way to Cáis. Cáis was set up in 1983. Many of the founding members continue to produce cheese today. The Steele family produce Milleens, the Willems craft Coolea, Jeffa Gill continues to create Durrus. The Berridge family make Carrigbyrne, the Fergusons’ are famous for Gubeen, Brodie’s make Boilie, Bill Hogan and Sean Ferry produce Gabriel and Desmond and the Maher family turn out the Cooleeney range.
As I stepped into the Cashel Palace Hotel where the day long celebrations took place the aroma of cheese tickled my nostrils. Casting my eyes around the cheese hall, I feasted upon the beautiful artisan farmhouse cheeses. There were over 40 of them ready for tasting. Eamonn Lonergan, chairman of Cáis guided me to his stand where his son Edward was guarding their Knockanore cheeses. Eamonn is married to my first cousin Patricia. Again I’ve known this cheese since its infancy and I know the work that Eamonn has put into his own business and Cáis. His cheese is rarely out of our fridge.
I crossed the hall to see the Carrigaline range of cheeses with their Gold medal award winning smoked farmhouse cheese and their new cheese biscuits. The chilli flavoured ones are gorgeous. To the right was the Cahill’s range. I was drawn to them because their labels are so striking and colourful and the cheese flavours did not disappoint. Their Whiskey cheese is made using Kilbeggan whiskey. I then called on John and Dan Hegarty of Whitechurch Foods who are local to us here in Cork. They began making cheese in 2001.
THE WORK OF CÁIS
Cáis was set up in the early 80’s to help farmhouse cheese makers to network and market their produce. Over the years Cáis has worked on milk quota matters, quality issues explored marketing, distribution and export possibilities. It has organised training for its members. It communicates with all Agencies and Government bodies keeping an eye on education possibilities, developments in technology and research. Cáis works closely with Euro-Toques and attends Artisan food events at home and abroad. They have close links with Tourism Ireland, Good Food Ireland and Slow Food. Eamonn Lonergan was fulsome in his praise for the people who distribute their cheeses such as Sheridans, Pallas Foods and Michael Horgan. He complimented Bord Bia Vantage, the Centre of Excellence for Small Business for its support of Farmhouse Cheesemakers.
John McKenna, author of the Bridgestone Guide addressed the gathering. He defined the art of cheese making as being about person, place, product and passion. He defined the magic of cheese making as “genius allied to geography.” There is no doubt that we have some wonderful cheese makers and cheeses and it is important that we explore and support these wonderful producers. The O’Leary’s won’t be found wanting in this department!
Katherine O'Leary.
Katherine writes for the "Irish Country Living" magazine in the Irish Farmers Journal every week.
Email: kkol@eircom.net